Monday, November 15, 2010

Getting started with KSS

Building a boat hull using the KSS principle is very simple once you understand the procedure. It is a little hard to realize how a flat panel, built on a table, can make a hull formation with a rounded bottom and fair curves, but it does work.

I attended the KSS workshop in Tennessee this year and participated in producing half a 42 foot catamaran hull in a ridiculous short amount of time. I know that building a hull is only part of the time required to produce a boat, but after building a 37 foot Searunner, I know that it takes a long time to build a hull using the bulkhead and stringer method that can then be turned over and the work inside the hull gets underway.

I think one aspect of this method that will appeal to an experienced builder is the fact that everything is done dry on a flat surface that is easy to work on. You can reach any position on the table to position material, adjust lines or what ever you have to do by just walking around to the other side. This is a lot easier then walking all over your work and messing up the alignment of foam, glass, etc.

Another advantage is that everything you do is dry. That means that you can make changes any time up to the application of resin to the panel. Made a mistake on the glass orientation, disassemble the panel to the point of error, fix it and then reassemble the panel. You are not rushed at any stage of the panel assembly as nothing is final until you apply the resin and then it is all done at once, top, bottom, ends, everything.

we will get into more detail as we go along, but first, let's talk about the table. Here is a picture of a table half constructed so you can see the structure. Click on the picture for a larger view.


It is very important that the table is constructed strong so that it is stable and has no air leaks through the table where the panels meet. Using a biscuit joiner or some such will help with the alignment of the panels and using a good quality glue between the panels will help with the air leaks. A doubler of about 6 inches wide is placed below each joint and it is glued and screwed to the bottom of each side of the joint. The panels used here are 3/4 inch Melamine surfaced. The Melamine takes the wax and makes a very nice smooth surface for the gel coat on the panel and helps eliminate a lot of fairing later. Another all too unpleasant a job that is done away with or at least reduced to a minimum by using KSS.

The table needs to be a few feet longer than the panel you are building. Steve and Larisa are building a 42 foot boat so their table is 44 feet long. A couple of sheets extra for butt blocks so maybe 13 - 15 sheets for this setup.


Here is the finished table with a template to get started. The tape on the joints between the panels is to help with the air leaks.

I found a company who supplies farms with heavy duty white plastic sheets 10 feet wide by 50 feet long and 1/8 of an inch thick. This large piece of plastic is rolled up as a drum, with no creases or bends and would roll out on top of the table to eliminate any problems with air leaks. I have yet to find out the price of said sheet, but have asked for a quotation.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

It gets better and better

I was most impressed by the last half hull Steve and Larisa built but the next one was even better. In Steve's own words again.....


Infused with 9.6 gallons resin in 35 minutes.
6-7 hrs of prep time today
3-4 hrs yesterday
4 hours before that







I am no expert, but you will have to agree, this is one fast and relative easy way to produce a hull for a boat. To help you understand the process, I will lay out the steps to produce one hull for a catamaran in my next blog entry.